My stand has been a Millennium M50 hang-on, left up semi-permanently. This is my first season crossing over to a saddle.

Here is what changed, what I had to pay attention to, and what the saddle makers themselves recommend.

From a hang-on to a saddle

A hang-on like the M50 is a seat and a platform. Millennium lists the M50 as a steel stand that weighs 20 pounds and is rated to 300 pounds (Millennium M50). Leaving it up means you're not carrying it in and out. Millennium did have a 2015 CPSC recall on its M-60 hang-on (the seat could bend), not the M50; if you hunt from any older hang-on, look up its model on the CPSC site.

A saddle is different. You hang in a harness, facing the tree, with your feet on a small platform. You carry the whole thing in and out every time.

My setup

I went with an XOP Complete Tree Saddle Hunting System. It came with the Mutant saddle, a platform, and the rope, so I had everything I needed in one box. I've since modded my saddle to be everything I like.

On XOP's Mutant page, the harness is listed at 24 ounces in Medium and 28 ounces in XL, and it comes with a lineman's belt and tether, an adjustable NANOCORE bridge, and two aluminum carabiners. The waistbelt has MOLLE webbing. I also use a CAVEKEAP MOLLE hook made for saddle hunting. I carry my saddle on it. It's a cheap way to hang gear off the saddle without adding metal.

With my full setup on Hawk Helium sticks, I hunt at about 20 to 25 feet.

Foot placement on the platform

If I'm not conscious of where my feet are on the platform, my arches hurt.

On a hang-on you sit down and your feet are just along for the ride. In a saddle, your feet are carrying part of you the whole time, so where they land matters.

Tethrd, one of the bigger saddle makers, says the same thing in its Saddle Hunting 101 guide: feet commonly get a little sore during the first few hunts of each year, and boot choice makes a difference.

Changing height and position

On long sits, I adjust how high I'm hanging and change position so I'm not stuck in one spot all day. For long sits I use kneepads, or I just use my pack instead.

The catch is the other direction. The danger is moving around too much. Every adjustment is a chance for a deer to catch you. So make your changes small and pick your moments.

Platform orientation and shot angles

Be very conscious of how your platform is oriented relative to the shots you can physically make. Almost no shot is impossible from a saddle, but some angles are far more comfortable than others.

Two things stand out:

  • Directly behind you is surprisingly comfortable. You'd think it would be the hardest shot, since you're facing the tree. It isn't.
  • Off-shoulder side shots are possible, but they take practice. Don't wait for a deer to try one for the first time.

Tethrd's guide lays out the same idea. Because you face the tree, a right-handed shooter has an easy time with everything to the left, behind, and in front of the tree, and the right side is harder. They recommend setting up so your expected shot is on your strong side, and hanging on the underside of a leaning tree so you're not fighting gravity all day.

I shoot a Mathews Lift X 33. Whatever you shoot, practice every angle from the platform at a low height before season.

Safety: what the saddle makers say

This part isn't optional. Read the manual that came with your saddle, platform, and ropes, and follow it.

The basics from Tethrd's safety section:

  • Use your lineman's belt from the moment you leave the ground, and move it up with you as you climb.
  • Attach your tether before you step onto the platform. They note most accidents happen during the transition from climbing to the platform, so stay double connected there.
  • Only take off the lineman's belt once your tether is connected and your platform is secure. Reverse it on the way down.
  • Inspect your saddle, ropes, platform, and accessories for cuts, tears, and wear before every hunt.

If your gear's manufacturer says something different, follow your manufacturer.

Where to spend, and where to save

Your saddle, ropes, tether, and platform hold your life, so buy from a maker that publishes weight ratings and instructions. A complete kit like mine is one way to get all the life-support pieces from the same company.

Small add-ons like a MOLLE hook, or using your pack instead of buying a seat, are places you can save.

Hang-on vs saddle at a glance

Hang-on (my M50) Saddle (my XOP kit)
Weight 20 lb stand, per Millennium Mutant harness 24 to 28 oz, plus platform and ropes
How it's used Left up semi-permanently Carried in and out every hunt
You face Away from the tree The tree
Comfort issue to watch Sitting still in one seat Foot placement and arches on the platform

First season saddle checklist

  • Read the manual for the saddle, platform, and ropes
  • Practice the whole climb, tether, and platform transition a few feet off the ground
  • Shoot from every angle on the platform at low height, especially off-shoulder
  • Set the platform with your most likely shot in mind
  • Pay attention to foot placement before your arches tell you to
  • Bring kneepads, or plan to use your pack, for long sits
  • Inspect all life support gear before every hunt

Other good options

This section is researched, not first-hand. These are well-supported alternatives to what's above, with sources.

  • Rope lineman's vs adjustable tether. Most saddle kits come with a rope lineman's belt and tether. Tethrd's Saddle Hunting 101 guide covers how each one is used and adjusted. Whatever you use, it needs to be rated for life support and set up per the maker's manual.
  • Ring of steps instead of a platform. A ring of steps is a strap with several small steps around the tree. The XOP Orbit is one option. Steps let you move around the tree, but give your feet less room than a platform.
  • A lifeline for the climb. A Hunter Safety System Lifeline keeps you clipped in from the ground up.

Safety first

This part is researched, not first-hand. The Treestand Manufacturers Association safety guidelines call for a full-body fall-arrest harness every time you leave the ground, including the climb up and down, attached the way the maker says, inspected before every use, and replaced after any fall or past its expiration date. They also recommend practicing at ground level, carrying a way to call for help, and having a plan for getting down after a fall. For saddle hunters, Tethrd's Saddle Hunting 101 guide says the same idea in saddle terms: be connected to the tree from the moment you leave the ground. A lifeline or ropes-up system, like the Hunter Safety System Lifeline, keeps you clipped in from the ground to your hunting height. Tell someone where you'll be and when you'll be back.

FAQ

Is a saddle harder than a hang-on? It's different. The things I've had to pay attention to are foot placement, how high I hang, and which way the platform faces.

Can you shoot behind you in a saddle? Yes. Directly behind you is surprisingly comfortable. Off-shoulder side shots are possible but take practice.

Do your feet hurt in a saddle? Mine do if I'm not conscious of where they are on the platform. Tethrd notes that sore feet the first few hunts of the year are common.

Should I buy a complete kit or piece it together? A complete kit gets you every life support piece from one maker with one set of instructions. Piecing it together can save money or weight, but make sure every piece is rated and you know how they work together.

The bottom line

In a first season, pay attention to three things: where your feet are, how the platform faces your likely shots, and how much you move.

Sources